Leaving the Marquesas

Waving Good Bye



Hein With The Manta Rays

We are currently anchored in Daniel's Bay on Nuku Hiva. It is a beautiful peaceful Bay, but it has some no-see-'ms, and we are all itching a bit. Yesterday we were here with only two other boats, kids boats!, and while the children watched a Harry Potter movie on one boat, the adults had cocktails on another boat, quite a good arrangement. We went on a very nice hike to the third highest waterfall in the world. It took us four and a half hours to go both ways. The last part of the hike which was stunning, had a warning that rocks could fall down, I think that was the part we walked fastest. In the evening our leg muscles were hurting from so much use!

Roll up your pants!



Double Treasure

We have visited five of the islands in the Marquesas: Hiva Oa, where we made landfall, saw all our friends arriving, and had lots of we-made-it parties. Tahuata, where we swam with the giant Manta Rays, an experience all of us loved; even Eltjo jumped into the water without hesitation. Fatu Hiva, where we anchored in the Bay of Virgins. There the wind was so gusty at night that several boats dragged anchor, one even drifted out to sea, barely missing a couple of other boats on the way. Ewout tried to wake them up via the radio and by shining a huge beam on them, but alas to no avail. Apparently they woke up when they were 5 miles out and then made it back in. Mysterious how some people manage to sleep through this kind of weather on a boat. After Fatu Hiva we went to Oa Pou. The people were really friendly and gave us lots of fresh fruit. We were there with only one other boat, our Dutch friend Aedgard on Lariekoek, who taught us to make rum-banana smoothies from over-ripe bananas. Wow do they knock you out! From there we went to the main anchorage in Nuku Hiva, where the 'whole' fleet anchored, I think we were there with at least 40 other boats. It was great though, because it was calm at night, not too many of the large tropical downpours and no 40+ wind gusts, we slept soundly each night! We were once again connected to the outside the world via internet, after quite a while without, it is funny how important that has become.

The Olympic Sport Crab Racing

Two Shadows

Later today we will head for the Tuamotus, this will be a three day sail. The Tuamotus are meant to be a little cooler than the Marquesas, which will be great. They are quite different from the Marquesas as they are atolls instead of high mountainous old volcanos. Depending on the wind we will choose which of the Tuamotus we will go to. We will let you know in a couple of days.

The Muscle Cramping Hike

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

The Sea by Jet Mante

Round the Island Marquesian Style

This was one of the welcome dancers. I thought he was the best.

One day on Hiva Oa we went to watch the islanders finish the outrigger canoe race. It was a race round the island, and it took them about 2 days to complete it. It was really cool. The festivities began when the first canoe with six big muscular guys came ashore. Some women and several younger men started the chant (in Marquesian) about rowing round the island. Together with the dance it was very imposing. I can't remember exactly how it went, but I know that the women would sing a while and that then the men would slap their chests and sing in bass voices "hey mata fukoo, chest slap, hey mata fukoo, chest slap" then the women would continue the chant. This was repeated every time a new canoe came ashore. Once all the canoes were on land garlands of flowers were put around the participants' necks. Then all competitors ate while watching a victory dance. We went home feeling that the Marquesians definitely had alot in common with the Maoris, as depicted in the movie Whale Rider.
By Jet

Nous sommes arrives a Hiva Oa

We did it!! We crossed an Ocean. We arrived safely in Hiva Oa on Friday, March 27,
after 17 days at sea. The crossing was uncomfortable at times, while cooking in the galley Judith acquired some bruises, and not everyone liked the squalls. However, we also had some very pleasant days and even managed to do 8 days of school. We only had to motor twice for 8 hours
when there were a mere 0.8 knots of wind. The rest of the time we had good winds. It was absolutely great to have Gerbrand, as our extra crew member. Nightwatch schedule was Ewout 8 - 12, Gerbrand 12-4, Judith 4 - 8am. Judith would always see the sunrise! The children
did well. They were lethargic for 6 days, which was longer than we expected but then they perked up. Apart from doing school we read lots of books and played lots of games.

After arrival, it has been so lovely to sleep whole nights! It was also great to go ashore and explore the island. The first time we were on land, it felt as if the land was moving!!We are practicing our rusty French with the locals, quite fun. It is really hot and humid here,
anything you do and you are drenched in sweat. So we love it when a tropical downpour cools us of. We are eating delicious baguettes and all sorts of exotic fruits like pamplemousse, breadfruit, mangoes and papayas. They pick it straight off the trees for us.

Today we took a tour of the island. The island is very lush and green, we saw at least 17 different shades of green with plenty of yellow, pink, red, orange and white mixed in. The flowers are magnifique!! Tomorrow one more trip to town to load up on baguettes, tomatoes and some veggies and then we're off to Tahuata; an island ~10 miles from here.