Showing posts with label Fiji. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fiji. Show all posts

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Fiji, SavuSavu: Curries and Goodbye to Aedgard

Lariekoek and Bravado jointly sailed from Mago Island to SavuSavu. Martin Livingston stood on the pier to make sure we left (safely).


 
Oh dear, another private island on our way to SavuSavu. Would Aedgard be able to resist the tempation?

Along the way nothing exciting happened other than that we got word of the Samoa Tsunami. Boats at sea tend not to get affected very much. However, we heard later from several of our boating friends in Samoa and Tonga who experienced some very scary moments. The local population was of course most affected. Even in Loma Loma the village we visited just a few days earlier, the Pier, church, and low lying houses were flooded.



 
A pretty sunset on our first evening in Savusavu


SavuSavu was a wonderful little town. Here we saw a lot of the Indian Fijians who run a thriving commercial sector. The ethnic Indians arrived many generations ago and now account for half the population of Fiji. There is a lot of tension between the Indians and the indigenous Polynesian/Melanesians, but frankly, they seem to need each other. A series of Coup d'Etats was intended to keep the Polynesian/Melanesians in control of the country. Let's hope sanity will prevail. In the mean time we greatly enjoyed some hot curries and Jet added another traditional dress to her collection.

 
Jet in traditional Indian clothing.


 
A hair clip Jet and Ewout are making from an oyster shell. To be continued...


 
Did we mention that there are mosquitoes near mangrove trees? The children chose a poor place to play.


We could not stay long in SavuSavu as hurricane season is approaching and we still have at least one more archipelago to visit. Lariekoek will be heading to New Zealand and Bravado to Australia. It was sad to say goodbye to Aedgard. Ewout has known him for almost 30 years the rest of the family a bit shorter, but we all love his sense of humor and independent mind. He was a great traveling partner. We had a wonderful last night on Lariekoek and played a game of cards (kwartet) that the children had made for him.

 
Eltjo and Aedgard reviewing the card game we made for him.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Fiji, Vanua Mbalavu

Malaka Village
While Aedgard was busy with Lariekoek on Mago Island, we anchored in Malaka Bay at Vanua Balavu in the Eastern Lau Group, 3 hours away. Normally it is difficult to get permission to visit this group as the villages want to maintain their traditional lifestyle. However, we needed a safe place for the coming high winds and couldn't proceed further until there was clarity as to what the state of Lariekoek was.

One of the staff from Mago Island helped guide us through the pass and then we moored at Malaka. Semiti Saini, the brother of the village chief, was very welcoming and hospitable. On our second night his wife cooked us a delicious curry. Ewout installed LED lights in his house, repaired his television and his washing machine. The latter was self interest of course, because then we could do laundry....

 
Hein helps to prepare "roti" a.k.a. Fijian Pizza.


 
Ewout trying to repair a portable DVD player.


 
The repaired laundry machine. No more hand washing needed!


 
Semiti's home: Satellite dish, generator power, and TV. (One of 2 homes in the village with these luxuries).


After two days Ewout went back to Mago Island to help Aedgard for five days and Judith was by herself with the children. The villagers remained lovely to us. Semiti visited us every day to see how we were doing. He brought fresh mangos and bananas We also took a truck, which serves as a bus, to the biggest village on the island: Loma Loma. There we saw the house of the prime minister who was in charge before the recent coup d'etat. The chief's wife baked the most enormous pecan  pie for us, which was delicious and from which we ate for five days. Jet, Hein and Eltjo took a rope from the boat to the village and all the children would join them in jump roping together.

 
Jumping rope with the village children.


Bay of Islands
When Ewout came back we went to the Bay of Islands (also at Vanua Balavu), which is one of the most beautiful places we have seen. Really stunning. You anchor in very shallow, crystal clear water. You are totally protected from the Ocean swells first by the reef surrounding Vanua Mbalavu, then by rings of small limestone islands. The water has erroded the limestone at water line level, hence many of them look like mushrooms.

 
View on the Bay of Islands from a hike we did.

 
Bay of Islands anchorage.


 
Mushroom style islets. At water level the limestone has been removed by wave action.


 
Crystal clear waters give view on underwater life.


 
How often do you see your boat's shadow on a sandy bottom?


 
A Beach landing in the Bay of Islands.


 
Hiking up to a coconut plantation and view point.


 
Coconut plantation. (Jungle is cleared and coconuts are given light to grow and chance to bear fruit).


 
One of many Fruit Bats that come out at nightfall.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Rescuing Aedgard by Jet Mante


After many happy weeks in Tonga, we set sail for Fiji in the middle of September. As we passed the Eastern most islands of Fiji, we were enjoying a beautiful sunset when...



Lariekoek earlier this year behind a reef in the Tuamotus, French Polynesia




...over the VHF radio we heard: “Shit, shit”, some crackling, and then “Mayday, Mayday!!” Those 4 simple words set the world upside down.

Dad rushed outside and uttered some expletives. I ran with him and saw Lariekoek (our buddy boat) with the distress light on. She was heeling over one way, almost toppling and then heeling over the other way till toppling point.

We went into action. Mum, Dad and I lowered the sails, started the engine and headed at top speed to Lariekoek. Mum steered, while Dad talked on the VHF to Aedgard (Lariekoek’s captain) and I put my hair in a ponytail. My two brothers (Hein and Eltjo), and I put all the long lines, Dad’s shoes and a fender into The Peerys (our dinghy). Next, in preparation for our rescue expedition, we gave two (solar charged, waterproof, LED) flashlights to Dad.

Dad asked me to go with him, so I pulled off my dress and put my windbreaker on over my underwear. I tucked a third flashlight like the ones Dad already had in my pocket and grabbed a lifejacket and a lifeline for Dad and myself. Finally, I clipped the mobile VHF to my lifeline.

Meanwhile Dad had put the last things into the dinghy, changed into swimming trunks and grabbed Hein’s headlight. Together Dad, Hein and I lowered The Peerys, and brought it to the back of Bravado, where Dad joined me in The Peerys. Dad started the engine to leave, and I let go but unfortunately we had forgotten the extra fuel tank. We came back and managed to get the extra fuel (Aaron, thank you for filling it up before we left Tonga!). Dad shouted some last instructions to Mum, before we really left.

While Dad explained that the lines in front were tied on and that the lines in the back weren’t I prepared a line with a fender and flashlight attached to the end. I prepared to throw the line overboard. Suddenly the depth went up from about 307 meters to 1 meter. We were over the reef!

Dad threw the fender overboard and let it drift to Lariekoek. Since it didn’t come quite near enough we hauled it back in, and dad decided to try again coming very carefully nearer to Lariekoek.

We came nearer and let the fender out again, it was almost at Lariekoek, when suddenly a huge wave washed over! It was cold, salty, sudden, but the worst bit was, that when I pointed the flashlight ahead, as we tried to get away, there were so many more!

I have no idea how many waves we went through, maybe three, maybe ten, but every time it was the same. First, I would see the wave and would crouch down in preparation, then under we went! When we came up again, I pointed the flashlight and saw what seemed like an even bigger wave ahead. I tried to bail, but couldn’t, for the bailer kept pulling up short on the rope, or only half of it was going overboard (it was abut a one quart bailer). After about two or three half full bails, another huge wave would crash. After the first wave my life jacket had exploded into being.

Finally, when I thought it could get no worse the engine failed, and we capsized!

I swam to Dad carefully to keep my feet off the sharp reef. I grabbed his hand, and made him promise to stay with me no matter what. Together we struggled to Lariekoek, wading and swimming over the sharp coral and through the surf.

Dad and Aedgard helped me get through the railing onto Lariekoek, which was hard with the life jacket on. I went back to the cockpit. Soon I was shivering as I listened to Dad and Aedgard discussing our options. There was talk of Dad and I swimming back to Bravado, but because of all the cuts we had, and since it was dark, “Jaws” was very much on my mind. (Later Dad told me he too had thought of sharks). Finally Aedgard and Dad decided Dad would try to find The Peerys and make her useable.

The whole time Dad and Aedgard were discussing the ship, leaning over 65 degrees, made grinding noises and violent thuds. Suddenly, the chart table, against which I was leaning to keep my balance, started moving separately from the rest of the boat... The hull was giving way.

I soon lay down in Aedgard’s bunk under a towel to keep warm. Crouching, while holding on so hard it hurt my knuckles, because the boat would change to leaning over 65 degrees to the other side, I drifted in and out of sleep, afraid for Dad.

Every now and then I would use the VHF radio to give Mom an update, and helped Aedgard and Dad. I was very grateful for my life jacket. Not only for helping me swim, but also for being a great pillow.

After what seemed like forever, Dad was done and I persuaded Dad into taking Aedgard with us. I did this while gathering Aedgard’s most important stuff with him.

Dad borrowed Aedgard’s bailer and replaced The Peerys broken outboard engine with Aedgard’s. Then he told me to sit up front on the fender and that my 3 tasks would be: 1. holding the oars, 2. Bailing, and 3. Guiding us through the waves.

I got in while Dad and Aedgard pushed us to the breakers. There Aedgard got in and started his engine while Dad steadied the boat. We were off to safety!

This time it was a little less scary. I bailed till Dad got in after going through the breakers. We made it with only 3 waves coming over us. By the time Dad got in there was water up to 3cm under the rim of The Peerys and it was still 1 kilometer to Bravado, but we were safe.

Dad bailed while I helped to guide Aedgard till finally we were at Bravado. It had been the scariest night of my life, but now we were safe!

We pulled The Peerys up on deck, showered, dried off, had hot chocolate and decided a route together with Mom.

I talked the adventure over with Mom before snuggling up and going out like a light.